Jurisdiction: Cafe / Brunch.
Outcome: Majority Verdict.
Ratio decidendi: Worth a visit for an atypical breakfast – but in my mind it’s really all about…
Salient features: …Breakfast with the Sakuma’s ($24.50).
Scope of discovery: Above and Eggs Blini
Case note: I came to know of Devon, in the same way I come to know of many a new place to visit – through a food-loving Malaysian. First impressions though weren’t great as I was told about a mythical kaya toast dish which would set you back a staggering $16. It’s comparable to someone telling an Australian that there’s a fancy vegemite toast sandwich that’s selling for $16 in Malaysia. A case of “I don’t care how good it is – you have to be off your tree to be spending $16 on vegemite/kaya toast”.
Impressions from my first visit, and the Eggs Blini, didn’t help (but more on that later). Were it not for another Malaysian staking their food reputation on a favourable outcome, I would have struggled to find the will to revisit – but boy I’m glad I did. Breakfast with the Sakuma’s is an indulgent – but not really – kinda breakfast. It feels a lil’ bit #baller because well, you’re having miso grilled king salmon for breakfast, and yet the overall dish probably lies to the left of the mean on the brunch calorie distribution curve. Each element on the plate adds a different dimension – texture and crunch from the smoked eel croquette, welcome acidity from the radish salad and kewpie mayonnaise because (c’mon it’s kewpie!) but also because of how it combines magnificently with the perfectly executed 63 degree egg.
Breakfast with the Sakuma’s did wonders to overhaul what was a rather pedestrian first Devon experience with the Eggs Blini. Granted it was visually impressive but the combination of (buckwheat pancakes, cured salmon, broccolini, salmon caviar and poached eggs covered in mandarin Hollandaise aka Mikado sauce) didn’t really quite gel for me. Felt more cacophony than a symphony of strange (ingredient) bedfellows. At least the hefty buckwheat pancakes made for this to be quite a filling breakfast.
Obiter dicta: As for that kaya toast? May be a while yet before I take the plunge – the psychological barriers are simply too high to overcome at the moment.